Setting up a 36 ft truss is often that perfect middle ground where you get plenty of open floor space without having to jump into industrial-sized budgets. If you're planning a workshop, a large garage, or even a modest barn, this specific span is one of those "goldilocks" numbers. It's wide enough to feel spacious but not so massive that you need a specialized engineering firm and a heavy-lift crane just to get the job done.
The Sweet Spot for Clear Span Space
When you're mapping out a floor plan, that 36-foot mark is pretty magical. Most people who go with a 36 ft truss are looking for a "clear span" environment. This just means you don't want a forest of poles or load-bearing walls cluttering up the middle of your shop. If you're trying to back a truck in or move a tractor around, hitting a post is the last thing you want to worry about.
At 36 feet, you can easily fit two full-sized vehicles side-by-side with enough room for a massive workbench or storage along the walls. It's also a favorite for agricultural builds because it's wide enough for most standard equipment but keeps the footprint manageable. You aren't quite into the "massive commercial" territory yet, but you've definitely graduated from the standard "backyard shed" vibe.
Wood vs. Steel: What's the Move?
You've basically got two main paths here: wood or steel. There isn't necessarily a "wrong" answer, but your choice will change how you work.
Wooden trusses are the traditional choice. They're usually pre-engineered at a local plant, delivered on a flatbed, and they're relatively easy to work with if you're a DIYer or a standard residential contractor. You can nail into them easily for things like lighting, hooks, or a ceiling finish. The downside? They can be heavy and bulky.
Steel trusses, on the other hand, are often lighter and can be spaced further apart. If you're doing a pole barn style build, you might only need a 36 ft truss every 8 or 10 feet, whereas wood usually requires 2-foot or 4-foot spacing depending on your local snow load. Steel won't warp, rot, or get eaten by termites, but you'll need a bit more specialized hardware to hang things from them later on.
Don't Underestimate the Pitch
The "pitch" or slope of your roof is going to dictate how that 36 ft truss actually looks and performs. A 4/12 pitch is pretty standard—it's steep enough to shed rain and light snow, but shallow enough that it doesn't make your building look like a giant mountain.
However, if you live in an area that gets hammered with snow, you might want to bump that up to a 6/12 or higher. Just keep in mind that as the pitch goes up, the peak of your building gets significantly higher. A 36-foot span with a steep pitch can result in a very tall ridge line. That's great for extra loft storage, but it can be a pain when it comes to siding and painting later on. It also catches more wind, which is something your building designer will definitely need to account for.
Getting Your Trusses to the Job Site
Logistics are where things get real. A 36 ft truss isn't something you're going to throw in the back of a pickup truck. These are wide loads. When you order them, you need to make sure the delivery truck can actually get to your building site.
I've seen plenty of projects get delayed because the driver couldn't make the turn into a narrow driveway or the ground was too soft and the truck got stuck. You'll want a clear, flat spot to drop them. Also, try to have them delivered as close to the actual building as possible. Dragging these things across a muddy yard by hand is a workout you don't want, trust me.
The Bracing Talk Nobody Likes to Have
If there's one place people get lazy, it's bracing. When you're standing a 36 ft truss, it's incredibly unstable until it's properly tied in. It's like a giant sail waiting for a gust of wind to knock it over.
You need temporary bracing while you're setting them and permanent bracing once they're up. This isn't just about keeping the roof on; it's about making sure the trusses don't "roll" or buckle. Follow the engineering papers that come with your trusses to the letter. They usually show exactly where the lateral bracing needs to go. It might seem like a lot of extra lumber and time, but it's the only thing keeping your roof from becoming a pile of toothpicks during a storm.
Spacing and Purlins
How far apart you space your 36 ft truss units depends mostly on what you're putting on top of them. If you're going with a traditional shingle roof, you're likely looking at 24 inches on center with plywood or OSB sheathing. This creates a very solid, stiff roof.
If you're going the metal roof route, you can often space the trusses further apart—say 4 feet or even more—and run 2x4 purlins (sometimes called lath) horizontally across the top. This is a huge time-saver and is generally cheaper, but you have to make sure the trusses are engineered for that specific spacing. You can't just take a truss designed for 2-foot spacing and stick it 4 feet apart because you feel like it. That's a recipe for a sagging roofline.
What's This Going to Cost You?
Pricing for a 36 ft truss fluctuates more than most people realize. Lumber prices are notoriously finicky. One month they're down, the next they're through the roof. Generally, you're paying for the lumber, the metal gusset plates, the engineering stamp, and the delivery.
Don't forget to factor in the "extra" costs. You'll likely need to rent a crane or a telehandler to lift them into place. Sure, you can try to manhandle them with a crew of six guys and some ropes, but for a 36-foot span, that's getting dangerous. Spending a few hundred bucks on a crane rental for half a day is the best money you'll ever spend. It turns a back-breaking, two-day ordeal into a smooth three-hour job.
Local Codes and Engineering
Before you pull the trigger and order anything, talk to your local building department. Every region has different requirements for snow loads and wind speeds. A 36 ft truss built for a shop in Georgia is going to look a lot different than one built for a barn in Minnesota.
Most reputable truss companies will provide an engineered drawing that's stamped by a pro. Hold onto these. Your building inspector will want to see them, and they are basically your "instruction manual" for how the trusses need to be supported and braced. It's much easier to get the paperwork right at the start than it is to try and retroactively fix a structure that isn't up to code.
Final Thoughts on the Build
At the end of the day, using a 36 ft truss is a solid investment in the usability of your building. It gives you that open, airy feel that makes a workspace actually enjoyable to be in. Just take the time to plan your delivery, don't skimp on the bracing, and maybe spring for the crane rental. Your back (and your roof) will thank you for it later. Once that last piece of decking is down and you're standing in 1,200+ square feet of wide-open space, you'll be glad you didn't settle for a smaller span.